skincare, sweets, and Oxford commas

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Thursday, September 15, 2016

Giving up dairy for better skin (and smoothie recipes to cope)

Jen eating milky desserts: key lime pie, espresso blondies, matcha soft serve ice cream

I'm convinced that dairy is an acne trigger for me, which sucks because I'm really into making buttery desserts, and I love dairy in general SO MUCH:
  • Triple cream brie from Cowgirl Creamery
  • Jasmine or earl grey tea-flavored ice cream from Mr and Mrs. Miscellaneous
  • Full-fat plain yogurt with granola – I could eat this every morning for the rest of my life. 
  • Sour cream in a taco. 
  • CHEDDAR CHEESE IN A TACO. 
  • Melted cheese in any form – hello, raclette and fondue! 
  • Kouign-amann and passion fruit bostock from b.patisserie
  • Banana cake with cream cheese frosting from Icing on the Cake
  • Chocolate rum cake from The Prolific Oven
  • Vanilla celebration cake from Susiecakes
Whenever I eat any of these delicious things, I get a horrible breakout. Granted, I've never had an easy time digesting dairy. But beyond mere lactose intolerance, there seems to be something about milk itself (the hormones?) that upsets my skin.

I never would have considered cutting out dairy were it not for my dermatologist, who told me there's a scientifically proven (albeit weak) link between dairy consumption and acne. But because she mentioned it, I've cut dairy from my diet for the past month and a half, and much like Annie Tomlin, I've noticed a difference!

It's especially difficult when cheese-covered bar food and milky desserts call my name. When I was visiting fast-food-mecca LA earlier this month, I had to order burritos and burgers without cheese or sour cream. This also meant giving up on my conquest for the Blue Velvet Cake from The Milk Shop, which I'd been wanting to try for years. *stomp stomp whine whine*

Without my favorite dairy treats, I definitely have fewer endorphin-blasting moments. But the sustained level of endorphins in my system is higher on average because my skin's smoother and I don't have as many embarrassing digestive issues (the people around me are a lot happier too...)

Better yet, my foray into the dairy-free world has helped me discover products like So Delicious Yogurt, which has a thick, creamy texture and delightful (not overwhelming) coconutty taste.

I used this yogurt to make a dairy-free version of Blogilates' Rainbow Smoothie and the smoothie bowl of my dreams, inspired by Hello Miss May. See recipes below!

Dairy-free rainbow smoothies with spinach, pineapple, raspberries, strawberries, cherries, carrots, peaches, and pitaya Rainbow Smoothies
adapted from Blogilates
makes 2 generous servings

Mix each layer one at a time. I used my Cuisinart Smart Stick Blender for each layer, rinsing the blender blade in between each run.

Yellow layer:
- 4 frozen peach sections
- 1 cup frozen pineapple
- 2" banana
- 1/4 cup almond milk

Orange layer:
- 8 frozen peach sections
- 1 clementine
- 1/2 cup shredded carrots

Red layer:
- 1 cup frozen cherries, strawberries, and raspberries
- 3 tablespoons So Delicious Plain Yogurt
- 3 tablespoons almond milk

Purple layer:
- 1 cup frozen blueberries
- 2" banana
- 1/4 cup almond milk

Green layer:
- 1 cup frozen green grapes
- 1 cup spinach
- 3 tablespoons So Delicious Plain Yogurt
- 1/4 cup almond milk

Pink layer
- 1 pitaya smoothie pack (can be found in freezer section at Whole Foods)
- 2" banana
- 3 tablespoons almond milk

Spoon each layer into a tall clear glass and enjoy!




Green smoothie with granola, strawberries, blueberries, and almonds
Green Smoothie Bowls
adapted from Hello Miss May
makes 2 servings

Green smoothie ingredients:
- 1 cup frozen green grapes
- 1 cup spinach
- 3 tablespoons So Delicious Plain Yogurt
- 1/4 cup almond milk

Toppings:
- Trader Joe's Vanilla Almond Clusters cereal
- Blueberries
- Bananas, sliced
- Strawberries, sliced
- Almonds

Directions:
  1. Blend all green smoothie ingredients together (you can use a traditional blender or a stick blender like the Cuisinart Smart Stick Blender).
  2. Get a shallow bowl.
  3. Place cereal on one side of the bowl.
  4. Place strawberry slices right next to the cereal.
  5. Layer blueberries next to the strawberries.
  6. Fill the other side of the bowl with the green smoothie.
  7. Place banana slices and almonds decoratively on top of the smoothie.
Friday, September 9, 2016

Accutane: The good, the bad, and the fabulous

Acne Studios is the name of a fashion-forward Swedish clothing brand, but it might has well have been my nickname throughout my acne-riddled adolescence and adulthood.
Acne Studios is the name of a fashion-forward Swedish clothing brand, but it might has well have been my nickname throughout my acne-riddled adolescence and adulthood.

I had severe, relentless acne from the tender age of 12. For years, I tried every other topical and oral treatment known to man (benzoyl peroxide, tea tree oil, salicylic acid, laser treatments, antibiotics, birth control pills, Chinese herbal medicine) and saw little to no success.

Thanks to my stubborn acne, my teen and early adult years were overrun with memories like these:
  • Hauling an enormous bag of anti-acne products to summer camp
  • Scouring the web for acne solutions late at night in my college dorm room
  • Leaving a big foundation stain on a friend's white shirt after giving him a hug
  • Freaking out about my red, bumpy face before every job interview

THE GOOD
Finally, my dermatologist prescribed Accutane (orally-ingested isotretinoin) when I was 24, and it changed my life. My skin was no longer an oily, inflamed mess, and I could step out of the house without a thick layer of foundation on my face.

On the left: Hiking in Palo Alto in 2009, wearing a TON of makeup. Despite layers of foundation, concealer, and powder, you can still see acne on my cheeks, forehead, and chin, plus my skin was extremely oily.
On the right: From my trip to LA last weekend, wearing just a touch of NARS Radiant Creamy Concealer in Ginger. Even though I ended my last course of Accutane in 2012, my skin is still relatively clear today. Also, I’ve aged.

I’m a huge advocate of Accutane for anyone who is frustrated with their acne. Essentially a large dose of vitamin A, Accutane shrinks sebaceous glands and slows the production of oils. With less oil, hair follicles and pores are less likely to clog, eliminating breeding grounds for acne-causing bacteria. The result? Clear, smooth skin.

Despite Accutane’s efficacy, people have a lot of qualms about it:
  1. There are claims that Accutane causes depression and suicide.
  2. Accutane was originally formulated as a skin cancer chemotherapy drug. It’s perceived as too extreme of a measure for a cosmetic condition like acne.
  3. One of the most common side effects of taking Accutane, dry skin, is assumed to be too painful to endure for a lifetime of better skin.

Here’s a qualm-by-qualm breakdown of why I still recommend Accutane:
  1. There’s no scientifically-proven causative link between Accutane and mental issues. Anecdotally, I felt more unhinged when I was on birth control pills (and I tried pretty much every brand on the market) than when I was on Accutane. Once my skin started clearing up, I felt more positive and emotionally free than ever.
  2. While it’s true that Accutane was originally formulated as a skin cancer drug, Accutane's had clinical clearance from the FDA as a safe anti-acne medication since 1982. Moreover, acne is not merely a ‘cosmetic’ condition: it is a very visible problem that can cause psychological and social scarring, so it makes sense to get advanced medical science involved. And under the guidance of a board-certified dermatologist that you trust, taking Accutane is perfectly safe.
  3. Accutane does cause dry skin, but it’s temporary and can be mitigated by using emollient lip balm, a deep facial moisturizer, and healing body ointment throughout your Accutane course.

Most importantly, most of Accutane's side effects can be mitigated by easing into it with small dosages that gradually get bumped up.

The efficacy of Accutane comes not from daily dosage amounts, but from the cumulative amount that you take over one continuous course. For example, if your dermatologist prescribes a 14,400 mg cumulative course (this amount will vary based on your height, weight, and severity of acne), you can take 60 mg daily doses for eight months, or you can take 120 mg daily doses for four months–so long as the cumulative dosage is the same between the two paths.

In order to mitigate the side effects mentioned above, I highly recommend the former path: I was on a mild 5 mg daily dosage for a month before eventually graduating up to 60 mg daily in my ninth month, and I experienced virtually no side effects (I was surprised because I am typically hyper-sensitive to most medications a la my experience with birth control pills).

THE BAD
Before you embark on your Accutane journey, please note these drawbacks:
  • Accutane causes birth defects when ingested by pregnant women. Any woman of child-bearing age who is prescribed Accutane must present two negative pregnancy tests before starting the medication and use two forms of birth control throughout the course. I recommend latex condoms and a non-hormonal IUD. Hormonal birth control can alter the skin-clearing effects of Accutane, and every time I’ve tried a hormonal birth control method, I’ve had horrible breakouts.
  • Accutane requires monthly monitoring of the liver due to its high vitamin A content. This requires visiting the doctor once a month to have your blood drawn and evaluated throughout the course of your Accutane treatment. The monthly trips to the doctor are manageable and absolutely worth it – remind yourself that you’ll only have to do them for a few months and then you’ll be DONE.
  • Accutane makes your skin more susceptible to sunburn. Daily sunscreen application is an absolute must (but this should be the case anyway even if you're not on Accutane). 
  • Accutane does not eradicate all acne forever. Even after completing an Accutane course, I still get a couple zits from time to time. But armed with topicals from the dermatologist's office, my favorite retail skincare products, and a rigorous skincare regimen, I have control over my acne (rather than it being the other way around).

STILL FEELING FABULOUS
Despite these drawbacks, the vast improvement in my skin (and my confidence) from Accutane was well worth it. My only regret with Accutane was that I didn’t try it sooner.



Monday, August 29, 2016

Review and demo: Semi-permanent lip color (and 50% off MEMEBOX sale!)

Jen Lee reviews and demos peel-off semi-permanent lip color from Memebox. The product is Berrisom Oops My Lip Tint Pack.

This post features a product from the Korean beauty site Memebox, where you can get 10% off your first order when you sign up at us.memebox.com. Also, note there's a 50% off sale on select items until 9 AM PST on Tuesday, August 30.

I'd mentioned in a prior post that a temporary lip tint could be a great option for camping trips. I'd assumed you could apply the lip tint the night before leaving, and the tint would last for a weekend in the outdoors. In effect, you'd look like you were wearing lipstick without having to weigh down your pack with actual lipstick.

So I put my theory to the test: I ordered this Berrisom Oops My Lip Tint Pack from Memebox and took it for a spin.


The way this product works is fascinating:
  1. You apply it to your lips like you would with any other lipstick
  2. Wait 5-10 minutes for the product to dry
  3. Gently peel off the dried outer layer (easier and less scary than it sounds) and behold the rich pigment it leaves behind.
The best thing about Berrisom Oops My Lip Tint Pack is you can snack all day without having to worry about your lip color rubbing off on your food.

The verdict? I love these lip tints for the following reasons:
  • Quick and painless process – easy to peel off. The peeling process is oddly satisfying and reminiscent of pore strips.
  • Smells nice and leaves lips soft.
  • Natural-looking matte finish.
  • Leaves behind a brilliant, non-sticky pigment that doesn't leave a residue when you eat or drink. I love the richness of the color – Benetint is too subtle for me. 
  • Semi-permanent effect without salon appointments or needles.
The product does have a few drawbacks:
  • Application is challenging. The stuff (prior to peel-off) is super sticky. I found it difficult to get the lip shape just right with the blunt plastic applicator.
  • The pigment comes off as soon as you exfoliate your lips. When I applied my HG Vaseline after doing the lip tint process at night, the pigmented layer exfoliated off in the shower the next morning.
  • It's not a weekend-long trip solution – it's more like a day-to-night solution. The longest I've been able to keep the pigment on has been 12 hours. So you can put it on before a camping trip, but it's not going to last past the first day.
All in all, I'm going to continue using this product because my tendency to snack throughout the day makes it hard for me to wear traditional lipsticks. But take note: my fiendish snacking hasn't stopped me from experimenting with other lip products. I have a recent obsession with Colourpop that I'll discuss in a future post.


I'm always on the prowl for new lip products – tell me about your favorites in the comments below or email jen@thejenproject.com!
Sunday, August 21, 2016

Vitamin C serum (and 4 more game-changers from the derm)

Here's a rundown of the latest and greatest products I got from my dermatologist, including vitamin C serum, my new HG sunscreen, and Retin-A Micro. From The Jen Project, a skincare blog for busy people.

I never regret visiting my dermatologist: she fills my hands with samples and my head with the latest research.

I went to the dermatologist last week for three main reasons:
  • Oiliness – By the end of each day, my face would be a shiny mess and my bangs would be flat because of my oily forehead. I miss how fluffy my bangs used to be when I was on Accutane.
  • Acne – I was breaking out, especially on my forehead, cheeks, and upper lip.
  • Wrinkles – I was noticing new lines around my eyes.

My oiliness and acne were especially bothersome to me, so I asked my dermatologist about getting back on Accutane. My skin on Accutane was enviably smooth and matte – ah, those were the days!

On the left: Me in Miami in 2011, fresh off the Accutane boat. Skin so smooth and matte! And you can see individual strands in my bangs. Not sure what was going on with my blush, but we'll save that for another post.
On the right: Me at Cafe No Sé in Austin about a month ago. Skin looks oily and bangs are sticking to my face.
On the far right: my lovely mother...SHOW ME YOUR SOFT SMOOTH SKIN WAYS.

But given that the husband and I could get pregnant in the next few years, my dermatologist urged me to stay off Accutane due to the possibility of birth defects. The FDA claims that you should be OK to get pregnant 1 month after you finish an Accutane course, but my dermatologist suggests waiting 3 months to be extra careful. Best not to risk it: no Accutane for me until I'm done having babies for good.

Ever an amazing doctor, my dermatologist recommended topical (read: baby-making friendly) products for all my skincare woes, and they're working great so far.

Skinceuticals Phloretin CF: There's proven scientific research on topical applications of vitamin C and wrinkle prevention. Chock full of vitamin C and other antixoidants, Phloretin CF is an anti-wrinkle potion I can wear during the day (unlike Atralin or Retin-A Micro, which are photo-inactivated, meaning exposure to sunlight makes them less effective). Atralin, Retin-A Micro, and Phloretin CF all stimulate collagen turnover, leading to firmer, smoother skin and more even skin tone. I've been using Phloretin CF every morning for about a week now, and it feels awesome: smooth, fast-absorbing, and it naturally emits a delicious coffee scent. Time will tell if the wrinkle-preventing properties have efficacy – in the meantime, I'll supplement this vitamin C topical by eating lots of citrus fruits and persimmons.

Skinceuticals Matte Mineral Sunscreen, SPF 50: I've found my new holy grail mineral sunscreen (and timing is perfect because it appears my old HG Clarins sunscreen will be discontinued). The texture is light, whipped, and absorbs into the skin invisibly - no residual stickiness, oil, chalky appearance, or shine. Another advantage over the Clarins? It's fragrance-free, which means I can take it camping when my Cerave sunscreen runs out.

Aczone: This one's an oldie but goodie. I've loved Aczone as a gentle acne spot-treatment for years, but my dermatologist has convinced me to use it daily all over my face as an acne-preventative and oil/shine control measure. It leaves skin smooth and matte, and it's extremely gentle given how much of an anti-acne powerhouse it is. One thing to note: if you get Aczone on your lips, it tends to dry them out. Not a big deal –just avoid the lip area when applying Aczone, and use lip balm for extra protection (I love cocoa butter Vaseline).

Soolantra: Originally formulated as a rosacea treatment, Soolantra also has efficacy as an anti-inflammatory for acne sufferers according to clinical trials. My derm told me I can use Soolantra and Aczone interchangeably. I love how Soolantra smoothens my skin; however, I've found that it makes me look shiny if I apply it in the AM, so I only apply it at night.

Retin-A Micro, 0.08% tretinoin (replacing Atralin): Atralin isn't preventing breakouts like it used to, plus the sticky texture of the gel is driving me nuts. My dermatologist prescribed Retin-A micro as an alternative to Atralin. Retin-A has a higher percentage (0.08%) of tretinoin than Atralin (only 0.05% tretinoin). It's light and creamy (not sticky like Atralin gel), and my bumpy pimples are already starting to flatten after only a week of using it.

Here's a roundup this week's derm haul!
Product What it fights Why it's a game-changer How to use it
Skinceuticals Phloretin CF
(no Rx required)

Wrinkles

Sun spots / discoloration
Clinically proven to diminish wrinkles and even skin tone

Stays active even when exposed to sunlight

Lightweight, smooth gel texture

Natural coffee scent
AM: Apply two pumps to facial skin, avoiding the eye area, right after washing your face in the morning
Skinceuticals Physical Matte UV Defense SPF 50
(no Rx required)
Wrinkles

Oiliness / shine
Gentle physical sunscreen

Fragrance-free

High SPF

No residual stickiness

No chalky appearance

Leaves skin matte
AM: Apply a pea-sized amount to facial skin after applying moisturizer and primer in the morning
Aczone

Acne

Oiliness/ shine
Clinically proven to reduce acne and oiliness

Gentle enough to use 2x/day

Leaves skin smooth and matte
AM: Apply a pea-sized amount to facial skin, avoiding the lip area, right after applying Phloretin CF and before applying moisturizer and primer

PM: Apply a pea-sized amount to facial skin, avoiding the lip area, right after washing and toning
Soolantra

Acne Leaves skin smooth

Helps treat and prevent acne
PM: Apply a pea-sized amount to facial skin right after washing and toning
Retin-A Micro,
0.08% tretinoin


Acne

Oiliness / shine

Wrinkles

Sunspots / discoloration
Very high, clinically proven anti-acne efficacy

Clinically proven to prevent wrinkles

Clinically proven to reduce sun spots

Light, creamy texture that absorbs easily

Helps maintain smooth, matte skin
PM: Apply a pea-sized amount to facial skin, avoiding the lip area, 20 minutes after toning and applying Aczone or Soolantra

And here's what my daily skincare regimen looks like with these additions:

AM
1. Cleanse: Cerave Hydrating Cleanser
2. Prevent wrinkles and discoloration: Skinceuticals Phloretin CF
3. Fight acne and shine: Aczone
4. Moisturize: L'Occitane Precious Cream
5. Fight shine: Hourglass Mineral Veil Primer
6. Protect from sun damage: Skinceuticals Matte Mineral Sunscreen, SPF 50

PM
1. Pre-cleanse: The Face Shop Rice Water Bright Cleansing Light Oil
2. Cleanse: Cerave Hydrating Cleanser
3. Tone (with a cotton pad): L'Occitane Immortelle Essential Water
4. Fight acne: Aczone or Soolantra
5. Wait 20 minutes for skin to dry completely
6. Treat acne, wrinkles, sun spots: Retin-A Micro, 0.08% tretinoin
7. Moisturize: L'Occitane Precious Cream
8. Fight undereye wrinkles: Shiseido Benefiance Eye Cream or Etude House Moistfull Super-Collagen Eye Cream

Excited to see if these products will continue working for me – hope you get a chance to try them out too!


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Saturday, August 13, 2016

Skincare gone wild: A camper's guide

Check out these quick and dirty tips on how to keep your skin in tip-top shape when you're contending with nature. From The Jen Project, a skincare blog for busy people. Visit thejenproject.com.

I am not a die-hard camping enthusiast, but I like to get outside every once in a while. Recent excursions include the Grand Canyon, Yosemite National Park, and the Colorado wilderness, where my now-husband proposed to me.

The Jen Project on how Jen was proposed to in Maroon Bells, Colorado.
My scrubbiest camping outfit and not a single lick of makeup – as you can see, I had no idea he was going to propose at that moment. This happened at Maroon Bells in Colorado.

When you’re in survival mode, skincare is probably at the bottom of your priorities bucket. How can you be bothered to slather anything onto your skin when you’ve got nature to contend with? The blazing sun, the biting wind, warding off predators, finding food – the whole camping experience is unfriendly to the lazy girl skincare regimen.

So what's a city girl to do when faced with the elements? After years of trial and error + advice from my dermatologist, I've come up with a manageable approach to minimize sun damage, acne, and wrinkles on camping trips:
  • Bring fragrance-free products. No one wants to attract mosquitoes or bears with scented products at the campsite. Bears have such a keen sense of smell that they've been known to tear open cars like tin cans, drawn by the mere scent of sunscreen. You'll have to store all toiletries – even if they're fragrance-free – in bear boxes if you're camping in bear territory.
  • Keep it simple. Cleanse and moisturize your face before you go into your tent at night. Cleanse, moisturize, and apply sunscreen in the morning. My go-to fragrance-free products are from Cerave:
    • Cerave Hydrating Cleanser: This stuff is so gentle and soothing, I use it even when I'm not camping. A dime-sized amount should clean off any dirt or sweat from hiking, campfires, and other outdoor activites.
    • Cerave Facial Moisturizing Lotion (PM): Spread a dime-sized amount over your face and body to calm down dryness from wind or sun exposure. You can use this lotion during the day, too, even though it's labeled "PM." I prefer to use this lotion with a layer of sunscreen rather than the "AM" version because the "AM" contains chemical sunscreens which break me out. 
    • Cerave Sunscreen Face Lotion, SPF 50: The long-lasting mineral base, high SPF, and low price point make this sunscreen a camping staple. Note that it has a slight metallic smell, and it has a thick texture (not velvety like my HG Clarins sunscreen, which I don't bring on camping trips because it's not fragrance-free).
  • Leave the makeup at home. Especially if you're backpacking, it's critical to pack light. If you don't feel like yourself without makeup, here's what you can do:
    • For light coverage, bring a fragrance-free tinted sunscreen. I like MDSolarSciences MD Creme Mineral Beauty Balm SPF 50.
    • Try these temporary lip tints and brow tints, which peel off to leave behind a "stain" that lasts for a few days. Apply these the night before you go camping, peel them off in the morning, and you'll be good to go with a soft, long-lasting tint on your lips and eyebrows. Haven't tried these myself yet, but I just ordered some from Memebox – stay tuned for my review in a future post.
  • Stay protected from the sun. Wear a wide-brimmed hat and sunscreen all day. For extra protection, wear a sunscreen shirt.
  • Keep the bugs away. Wear unscented bug repellent on your body and long pants / long-sleeved shirts. Since I have yet to find a bug repellent that feels OK on my face (essential oils break me out), I plan to wear a mosquito net over my head for my next long hike.
Here's a cheat sheet:
Check out these quick and dirty tips on how to keep your skin in tip-top shape when you're contending with nature. From The Jen Project, a skincare blog for busy people. Visit thejenproject.com.

You may not come back from the wilderness with perfectly smooth, flawless skin. But there's something to be said for the sweeping views and fresh air that can only be experienced in nature. And who knows: spending time outdoors might give you a healthy inside-out glow that city-dwellers will envy.

Cathedral Lakes in Yosemite National Park - spectacular scenery. The hike there is long but well worth it.
Cathedral Lakes in Yosemite National Park. Spectacular in person; my photo doesn't do it justice.

I hope these tips are helpful for your next outdoor adventure!